(10th July) Kirkwall – Orkneys It was a long overnight sail, by breakfast we were still progressing through the western group of the 70 or so islands that make up the Orkneys. The view from the deck was a vast change from that of the savage and barren coast of Greenland. Low, flat and green… Continue Reading

(7th July) Sea Day There were no icebergs, whales, or dolphins seen today. We have left the Arctic Circle way behind us, with just a few birds using the airflow from the Ambience to aid their passage to somewhere. The sea is choppy with white horses plenty to confuse the dedicated naturalists on board who… Continue Reading

(5th July) Nuuk Despite being the capital of Greenland, like every other settlement we have visited on this trip, its urban sprawl is limited to a narrow, barely sufficient strip of sloping terrain between mountainside and sea. Blocks of community buildings clinging onto the rocky face of some unpronounceable range surrounding the port, served by… Continue Reading

(3rd July) Ilulissat Thankfully the weather witches complied with my wish and we woke at 7 am to discover a clear blue sky, not a cloud in sight. Today we were off to see the glacier from the sea. Twelve of us boarded a small boat from the pontoon set aside for the Ambiences’ tenders… Continue Reading

(1st July) Sisimuit Today was the brightest day in a while, with only a very light drizzle to contend with and considering our latitude, that was quite acceptable. As we anchored off the port of Sisimuit around 6.30 am, Sue and I were still snug and warm under the duvet. However, when an announcement by… Continue Reading

(29th June) Narsarsuaq This morning we were awake from 5 am. After a quick breakfast, it was down into the Palladium to wait for our ‘Boat trip among the icebergs’. We had previously arranged to go and see the ancient, abandoned settlement of ‘Erik the Red’, a short boat ride away in Qassiarsuk, but it… Continue Reading