Two days ago, Charlotte, Suraj, and Lucas travelled to see us. It took them over an hour by minibus; roads here are mostly dusty tracks, with numerous police checks that delay any journey. It was lovely to see them, and as it was Charlotte’s birthday, she had cards and presents to open. The hotel staff were just as excited as we were to see them, so they did a full round of introductions before we could show them around the hotel grounds and our rooms.

After the introductions and tour, we took a taxi into Stone Town to show them the sights. We wandered through gift shops and art galleries before having lunch at a bar housed in the former British Consulate, the building where David Livingstone’s body was brought and stored after his death, before being shipped back to England. It’s now a very attractive place, with beautiful views over the sea.

While shopping, we had an unpleasant encounter when a local hawker became too aggressive with Suraj. After some pushing and sharp words, he eventually left us alone. We left the market inside the fort with several paintings in hand. Around 4:30 pm, they left to return to their hotel in Nungwi.

The following day was Charlotte and Suraj’s wedding. After breakfast, Sue and Sarah took a pre-booked minibus to Nungwi. Sarah had been so excited about the wedding that she skipped the previous evening’s meal in Stone Town, choosing instead to wash her hair and get everything ready. She and Sue had a wedding-day spa session and massage booked, and Charlotte had arranged for all three of them to have their hair styled.

Jamie and I (the men) didn’t travel with them; protocol dictated that we weren’t allowed to enter the hotel (Gema del Est) until after 4 pm. That’s also why Suraj and Lucas had to travel to us; Suraj wasn’t allowed to see Charlotte before the ceremony. It made sense for the two of them to meet us and then for us to travel north together.

After they arrived, we passed the time walking along the beach to a nice bar for lunch. On the way back, we had to race the incoming tide, a little bit of a panic, as it could have derailed everything (though Sue and I weren’t entirely sure what had been planned). After showering and dressing in our finest, we caught a taxi at 2:30 pm and headed north. It rained en route, which was disappointing, but thankfully it stopped by the time we arrived, and the sun came out!

Uniquely, the hotel staff drove us by golf cart to Suraj and Charlotte’s rooms. I must admit, the location was stunning, a white beach, crystal-clear water. It’s easy to see how this hotel earned its five-star rating and international accolades for exceptional service and facilities.

Jamie, Lucas and I were taken to where the girls were staying; Suraj remained in his own rooms. I’ve always known I have two beautiful daughters, but today they looked absolutely breathtaking. Several weeks earlier, I had made a video of our wedding using some old photographs, and as I looked at my daughters, I was reminded of just how beautiful Sue had been on that day (and still is). Neither Suraj nor I had seen the dresses until now, but we agreed they were a perfect choice. Having paid for them to be designed and made, even the Yorkshireman in me had to admit (grudgingly) that they were worth every penny.

Eventually, dressed and sweet-smelling, Jamie, Suraj, Lucas, and Sue were whisked away in more golf carts. I took a few photos of Charlotte and Sarah before we too were transported to the ceremony’s starting point, next to a beach full of curious holidaymakers.

What followed was truly amazing, and aside from the birth of my children, up to now, the proudest moment of my life as a father. Walking my eldest daughter Charlotte down the aisle was unforgettable. We descended a series of steps strewn with red petals, accompanied by two Maasai chieftains. As we paused at the bottom, it seemed as if the whole island was watching, applauding, taking photographs. Mercifully, someone handed us glasses of champagne; our throats were parched with nerves and emotion.

Refreshed, we continued along a walkway of plaited palm leaves (thoughtfully laid down so Charlotte’s train wouldn’t drag in the sand), guided by another Maasai warrior scattering petals. We walked beneath flowered arches, cameras flashing and hands clapping, from both guests and hotel staff, who had been given time off to attend. Eventually, we reached Suraj (who looked very relieved). Twelve Maasai warriors stood beside him, while a band of Maasai drummers pounded out a hypnotic rhythm.

As Charlotte and Suraj began exchanging their vows, I stepped back to watch, take photographs, and soak in the scene. There was complete silence. Everyone seemed to be holding their breath, listening to every word. Sue and I were invited forward to sign as witnesses, and then the priest motioned for Suraj to kiss Charlotte, at which point the crowd erupted in applause!

Then came a moment only the family understood. Suraj stepped forward and presented me with a small wooden camel. Years ago, when Charlotte was a little girl, I’d jokingly bartered for her with an Arab trader in a Cairo souk. He had admired her blonde hair and jokingly offered several camels for her. I’d thought it was lighthearted at the time, but it had given young Charlotte nightmares. This gift was a wonderfully thoughtful and memorable gesture.

The newlyweds then walked back down the palm walkway, flanked by warriors dancing and chanting, drums now louder than ever. When they reached the end, the ceremony shifted into what appeared to be a traditional Maasai wedding ritual. Suraj and Charlotte faced the warriors in a semi-circle as they leapt, sang, and performed what, through European eyes, seemed almost threatening at times. It was loud, colourful, and spectacular.

After things calmed down, we took formal photographs with everyone present. Then, in the ever-handy golf carts, we returned to the couple’s rooms, only to be met with another surprise. The rooms had been transformed. Every surface was covered with red petals. “Jambo” was spelt out in flowers on tables, beds, and even the toilet! More champagne was waiting, and a spread of food and fruit had been laid out. How the staff managed to do all this while also attending the ceremony is beyond belief.

Later, still emotionally high (and now more than a little merry), we travelled back to the beach for the wedding meal. The sun was beginning to set, casting a warm golden glow across the heavens. The beach was empty but for us. The only sounds were the sea and the rustling of flowers adorning the long table and chairs. It was superb. Romantic. As candles flickered to life and stars emerged to bless the occasion, we toasted the couple with champagne, Malibu and Coke, and soon there were seven very merry revellers.

Dinner was served by two smartly uniformed staff until the very creamy wedding cake arrived. Once the staff left, we were left to ourselves. Under the stars, we built sandcastles, played tag, and attempted cartwheels. Eventually, little Lucas, worn out, fell asleep in his pushchair. He missed the African band playing a brilliant Santana set, and he slept on while Suraj and Jamie found a Hubbly Bubbly pot and, stretched on cushions in the beach bar, seemed to drift off to another world.

Too soon, it was time for us to leave. Those of us staying in the south departed around 1 am, arriving back at a dark, silent hotel at 2:30 am. I tried to sleep but couldn’t. I lay there, recalling every moment, the sights, sounds, and emotions of the day. At 6:30 am, I got out of bed and began to write.

It had been such a perfect day.
Thank you, Charlotte, Suraj, and little Lucas.