26th March 2016

Another slow start to the day. Looking out of the window, we didn’t have the stunning view of a medieval castle to admire; instead, we faced acres of uninspiring tarmac, covered with stacks of containers in all colours.

The ship’s excursions had long since departed by the time we emerged onto the quay to board our shuttle bus to the port entrance. Though first impressions weren’t great, at least the streak of warm and sunny weather we had been enjoying continued to greet us.

The ‘Thompson Spirit‘ was also in port, so we were expecting plenty of Brits around, and we weren’t disappointed. Sue picked up a city map from the information kiosk, and we set off, following the helpful yellow line leading to the centre. We hadn’t gone more than a couple of hundred metres when we came across some ‘Hop on, hop off’ tour buses. With no set plans for this port, we decided to hop on.

We thought it would be a good idea to stay on the bus for the full circuit, seeing the various attractions highlighted on our map and then returning to them later. We knew that, since it was Good Friday in Greece, the locals would take the festival very seriously, meaning shops, attractions, and museums would be closed. Only tourist shops would remain open, as two ships were in port.

About two-thirds of the way through its route, we stopped at the entrance to Knossos. The driver confirmed it was closed. However, two passengers insisted on getting off. Thoughtfully, the driver checked with a staff member standing by the entrance and discovered that it was open until 11 am. It seems it had opened specially for the excursions from our ship and would then be closing. We were off the bus in a flash and standing at the ticket office with Euros in hand. What luck! The excursions from the ship were leaving as we entered, so we had the whole site to ourselves, along with the few others who had also jumped at the opportunity.

The Minoan palace of Knossos is credited as the site of the Labyrinth and the Minotaur, as well as the story of Daedalus and Icarus. It is thought to date back to around 3000 BC and was destroyed by an earthquake. It is a truly unique site. Much of it was destroyed by the earthquake and a later major fire, but a great deal remains in remarkably good condition considering its immense age.

It is easy to understand the theories that the palace itself was the maze in which the mythical half-man, half-bull creature, the Minotaur, presided. When you see for yourself the multiple layers of buildings, structures, alleyways, roadways, and watercourses, you can appreciate the complexity of the site. Some parts have been restored, and they really do offer an insight into the opulence of the place, with mosaics, wall paintings, and intricate masonry everywhere. As with Petra in Jordan, Knossos is a must-visit site in Crete.

We managed to spend just over two hours at the site before the gates were shut, and we had to catch the next ‘Hop on’ bus.

With our plans adjusted, we next alighted at the port castle and fish market. The castle itself was rather unremarkable, and we gave it only a cursory inspection before heading into the city along the main route lined with tourist shops. Yes, Sue did manage to find a Christmas bauble for the tree.

As it was a Greek holiday, the centre was very busy with both locals and tourists. At the very end of the street we were following, we came across a parade of schoolchildren carrying national flags, and the pavements were crowded with cheering locals (we assumed they were parents). Later, we encountered groups of families posing for photos with their proud, uniformed children, again holding the Greek flag.

In Lion Square, at the heart of the city, we found a restaurant with a high balcony and sat watching the crowd below while enjoying refreshments. It was fascinating to observe how they celebrated; most carried little flags, all seemed happy, and everyone appeared eager to engage in conversation with those around them. And the sun shone down on it all.

Refreshed, we paid the bill and made our way back to the port via a different route than the one we had taken earlier. As we drew closer, we noticed small groups of cruise ship passengers heading in the same direction, all intent on not being left behind.

Reaching the entrance to the port terminal, we boarded our shuttle bus to the ship and were soon up in the Grill restaurant, enjoying a very late lunch.

Sue enjoys watching the ship leave port, so she went on deck to say goodbye to Crete. I stayed in the cabin, watching the breaking news from Brussels on TV.

When Sue returned to the cabin, we shamefully napped until it was time for the evening show, which featured a very good tenor singing ‘passionate’ songs. Well, we are aboard the NeoRomantica!

The meal afterwards was a major disappointment. The Botticelli was advertising the menu as ‘Food for Connoisseurs’, and Sue suggested we give it a try. As usual, the service was agonisingly slow, principally due to the ordering and delivery system in operation. The waiters work hard, never stop moving, but still find time to chat with passengers. We tend to use this restaurant only on rare occasions. We expected great food, but what we received was ill-conceived, artistic, but tasteless fare. Much of it went back. Sue’s soup, however, was a cracker: pork jowl and seafood with cannellini beans. When she ordered it, the waiter informed us that it was a dry soup. And it was. Far too pretentious. It went back.

Later, during dessert, it was announced that the chef had 7 Michelin stars. Hmm, we thought the limit was 3 stars, but perhaps that’s just for British chefs. Maybe they meant he has 7 Michelin tyres?

It was a very short trot around the decks this evening, as it has got a little chilly. What’s going on? Afterwards, while reading the ship’s magazine in the cabin, we spotted a typo for tomorrow, Max temp 12°C?

No way!