11th May 2025

I woke at 6 am, showered, and packed my rucksack before Sue stirred. By 6:30 am, we were in the dining area, surprised to see so many others already seated and eating. What we hadn’t realised was that the hotel next door was linked to ours and shared the same restaurant facilities. We ended up sitting with a couple from Reading, Jenny and Ron, who recognised us from the flight. They had an easy-going nature, and we got along splendidly.

After breakfast, we returned to our room to gather our things. Sue settled in the reception while I took a short wander down the lane, capturing some photos of the Vietnamese having breakfast at the street-side stalls. When I returned, Jenny and Ron were also waiting for the mini-bus to Halong Bay. Right on time, our guide for the next two days led us down the very same lane I’d just photographed, where we boarded the bus alongside six other passengers.

Our journey through the Vietnamese countryside was set to take three hours, with a brief stop for refreshments and a restroom break. Conveniently, or perhaps strategically, the stop was at a retail outlet showcasing local artwork and jewellery. Sue couldn’t resist and bought a piece of Vietnamese silk artwork, asking one of the seamstresses to finish it off by embroidering “Vietnam” onto the picture. This took a little time, and I could sense our fellow passengers’ impatience as we held things up, a familiar frustration from past tours, though this time we were the culprits!

Upon arriving at Halong Bay City, we disembarked and boarded a small tender that took us to our boat for the next two days. We were assigned Cabin Number 1, which turned out to be compact but quite comfortable. After settling in, we made our way to the main dining room, where we joined the other guests for lunch. The food was abundant and authentically local, featuring squid, Halong Bay fish, and other regional delicacies.

As we ate, we sailed through some truly breathtaking scenery. Thousands of small islands with towering limestone cliffs rose majestically from the sea, most of them blanketed in lush vegetation. These stunning vistas are the subject of countless posters and postcards, but no image can truly capture the beauty. It’s an awe-inspiring place you simply have to see for yourself.

As we cruised through Halong Bay, we passed the very spot where Top Gear filmed a Christmas episode during one of their road trips, where they sank a couple of cars into the Bay. It was a fun bit of trivia, and amusingly, the area wasn’t as remote as the show had led us to believe!

We anchored near a small island that featured a panoramic viewpoint and a small beach, so we took the tender over to explore. First, we climbed the mountain to reach the viewpoint. The views were obviously spectacular, truly breathtaking, and I’ve enclosed some photos to give you a sense of the beauty.

Afterwards, we descended back to sea level, and I decided to take a refreshing swim in the sea. While I was swimming, two young Vietnamese ladies joined me and seemed keen to start a game of “Splash the European.” Of course, I happily joined in, and it quickly became a playful and enjoyable exchange that left them giggling with delight. It was a moment of fun in an otherwise serene setting.

After our swim, the group gathered together and boarded the tender to return to the boat. We briefly dropped off those on the boat who weren’t interested in kayaking around the bay. Reluctantly, I had to persuade Sue not to join in. I was worried that if we capsized, because of her weak wrist, she would struggle to get back into the kayak on her own, and I wasn’t sure I could help her.

I partnered with our guide, Hung, and we led the other three kayaks through some quite exquisite scenery. We paddled between towering cliffs and passed through sea caves, truly one of the most enjoyable parts of the day. It was peaceful, yet adventurous, and before we knew it, we were back on the boat, sharing stories of our kayaking adventure.

After such strenuous activity in the heat of the day, the first cold glass of beer tasted incredible. As one, we took a moment to relax and unwind, savouring the moment.

After a refreshing shower and a change of clothes, we made our way to the upper deck for more drinks. Again, we took in our beautiful surroundings, enjoying the tranquil atmosphere, and spent some time chatting with the other guests. It was the perfect way to relax after our busy day.

Later, we returned to the main room where the chef gave us a hands-on demonstration on how to make traditional Vietnamese Spring Rolls. The ingredients had already been prepared, so it wasn’t too complicated to make them; it was certainly novel. Once we’d rolled them up, they were whisked away to be cooked, ready to be served as part of our evening meal.

Afterwards, we headed back up to the top deck to continue our conversations with a few more drinks, feeling content and immersed in the laid-back ambience of the boat.

The meal was fantastic, as always, and very generous in proportions. We had made so many Spring Rolls that not all of them were finished, and they were delicious. As the evening progressed, happy hour arrived, a buy-one-get-one-free cocktail deal that most enjoyed. My preference was beer, but Sue decided to try the ‘Crouching Tiger’ cocktail. I watched as the bartender mixed it, a very elaborate process with multiple ingredients, and the result looked like green pond water with wriggling tadpoles. Despite its strange appearance, Sue assured me it tasted great. I trust her judgment, but I didn’t venture a sip.

The group spent the rest of the night trying to catch squid off the front of the boat. First, the men tried and failed dismally, then the women took over, and things got quite a bit silly when they hooked one squid, two small fish, and a jellyfish, though the latter was caught in a net, not on a line. Sue was determined to stick with the traditional line method longer than anyone else, so I joined her, favouring a harpoon, though that didn’t yield any success either. Still, it was all in good fun, and no one ended up in the water. We finished the evening back at the bar, enjoying the last of the drinks before heading to bed for the night.