7th May 2012

Today we set out with noble intentions: to explore Kota Kinabalu and indulge in a spot of shopping. The sun blazed down, the sky was postcard-perfect, and the heat could have cooked an egg on the bonnet. I was deeply grateful for the car’s air-conditioning, something I’d entirely forgotten to request when booking. Fortunately, the rental company clearly had more sense than I did.

Like in the UK, Malaysians drive on the left and obey traffic laws, although Toyota Hi-Lux drivers appear to operate under their own… interpretive version of the Highway Code. We saw only one accident, a burnt-out, overturned car that had failed to conquer a roundabout. Locals were gathered around, which suggested such drama was a rarity. One hopes the occupants escaped with nothing worse than a bruised ego.

A valuable Malaysian motoring lesson: when you see a petrol station, fill up. They’re few and far between, and distances can stretch further than your optimism.

The promenade was our first target. The map suggested a complex, winding route, but we arrived after only two U-turns, which is practically a navigational triumph in my book. We parked easily and, after checking with another driver that we weren’t about to be towed, set off on foot for a waterfront wander.

The market was a colourful sprawl of stalls, where we discovered a shop selling paintings. An oil painting of Mount Kinabalu caught our eye, and before long, we were its proud new owners. Fortune then led us to an indoor mall blessed with air-conditioning, where cold fruit slushies restored our will to live.

Recharged, we returned to the market in search of a pearl necklace for Sue, who eventually decided on a custom-made piece. Pearl earrings for Sarah and Charlotte completed our jewellery haul.

On the way back to the car, I spotted a massage parlour and treated myself to a foot massage and something billed as a “deep foot scraping”. It sounded faintly medieval, but was in fact rather blissful. My feet emerged feeling like they’d been upgraded to business class.

We detoured to the harbour to watch boats departing for the islands, making a mental note to come back with more time (and possibly a hat). Ice creams were acquired and consumed in record time before they gave up the fight against the heat.

A drive around the bay took us to a sandy beach, where we walked its entire length collecting shells for Lucas’s ever-growing stash. By late afternoon, the place was full of families enjoying the sun, a scene that felt warmly familiar despite being half a world from home.

On the way back, we passed through the modern university campus, then rolled into Tuaran for a look at the pagoda and a recce for dinner. Sue unearthed a craft shop treasure in the form of a carved wooden buffalo. After a pleasant chat with the owner, we headed back to the hotel to regroup.

That evening, we returned to Tuaran and stumbled upon what was probably the best meal of the trip, an air-conditioned restaurant with an owner who spoke excellent English and treated us like royalty, possibly because we were his only customers.

Back at the hotel, a beauty pageant was in full swing in the foyer. I lingered hopefully, but Sue made it clear this was not going to be an all-evening engagement.