29th August 2008

The internet here is sooooooo slow, it makes dial-up feel like broadband. Sending an email is like launching a message in a bottle and hoping for the best. But frankly, with scenery like this, it’s hard to stay grumpy; the stunning coastline and cloudless skies more than make up for our digital blackout.

It’s been properly hot the last few days, so we’ve sensibly adopted a slow-motion pace, sticking to the shade and moving only when absolutely necessary, mostly in search of food or shade. Think sun-drenched tortoises and you’ve got the idea.

Last night, we ventured into Stone Town again and, believe it or not, had a genuinely superb meal. Yes, you read that right. The curry house we found delivered food that was hot, delicious, and brought to our table before we had time to grow old and grey. The service was so efficient it felt like we’d briefly teleported to Thailand or maybe even back home. Of course, this being Zanzibar, the bill came with a side of mild shock; good service appears to come at a premium. Still, worth every shilling for a meal that didn’t involve a two-hour wait and a scowl.

Today’s outing was to a local spice farm, a wonderfully fragrant experience that left us smelling better than we’ve probably smelled all holiday. We sampled everything from cloves and nutmeg to cinnamon and lemongrass, all grown on site. At one point, we were adorned in palm leaf crowns, necklaces, and other leafy accessories by an enthusiastic guide. We looked utterly ridiculous, like a troupe of overgrown, sunburnt forest fairies, but we embraced it and had a laugh.

We’re particularly excited about tomorrow: Charlotte, Suraj, and little Lucas are arriving! We’ll be meeting them at the airport before they’re whisked away to their much grander hotel up in the north of the island. We’ve heard it has actual service and working air conditioning. Must be nice.