9th October 2023

Overnight, the ocean calmed, and by breakfast, we were gliding through a tranquil sea beneath a clear blue sky that promised a fine day ahead. By the time we docked in Charlottetown, the capital of Canada’s Prince Edward Island, we were seated in the theatre, stickered up and ready to disembark.

Charlottetown sits on the southern coast of the province and holds a special place in Canadian history. It hosted the Charlottetown Conference in 1864, which ultimately led to the founding of the nation. However, it is perhaps most famous today for its association with Lucy Maud Montgomery, the Canadian author of Anne of Green Gables, published in 1908.

Sue had chosen this excursion as she’d read the book, watched the Netflix adaptation, and was keen, if not outright excited, to visit the home of the author and the landscape that inspired the story. I, having never read the book, must admit I was a little less enthusiastic… but I was happy enough to see what all the fuss was about.

 

Three buses from the ship set off for Green Gables Farm in the small township of Cavendish, known in the book as the fictional town of Avonlea. Our driver took us on a circuitous route through the older parts of Charlottetown, allowing us to absorb a little local history before continuing to our destination. Gazing out of the bus windows, we were struck by the beauty of the unfolding scenery: gently rolling farmland dotted with neat little farmsteads and small settlements; well-managed patches of forest clothed in the rich colours of autumn; and still ponds and lakes reflecting the azure sky and surrounding landscape. It was, quite simply, beautiful.

Taking the advice of our guide, we made our way straight to Lucy Maud Montgomery’s picturesque, traditional, wood-built, white-painted home. A few others had arrived before us, but on entering the house, we found that although the rooms were not large, they were undeniably cosy and welcoming. A roped route guided us through the ground floor, then up the stairs and through the bedrooms, before descending once more to the entrance. Each room was furnished in the style of the period, just as it would have been when the Montgomery family lived there. I must admit, I rather liked the house; it felt like somewhere I could quite happily spend time, perhaps even live in. At least during the summer months, I suspect the winters might be rather less inviting.

We wandered the grounds around the homestead, taking photos of the carriage, the buildings, and the surrounding woodland before deciding to follow the trail along Lovers’ Lane, discovered by Lucy when she was just nine years old. The path followed a small stream through the woods, crossing it several times via wooden bridges. Along the route were boards displaying excerpts from Lucy’s writings, each so vivid and evocative that it’s no surprise her book remains so popular to this day.

With a little time remaining before we had to rejoin the bus, we decided to follow the Ghost Trail, which wound down the slope in front of the house before looping into the forest, at one point cutting across the fairway of the Green Gables golf course. It wasn’t quite as pleasant a walk as Lovers’ Lane, as many of the pine trees stood stark and bare, their needles stripped away by beetles, leaving them lifeless. We also had time to visit the small museum dedicated to the life of Lucy Maud Montgomery, where we discovered a few more fascinating facts about this remarkably talented woman. In the end, I found myself thoroughly enjoying the day and was glad I had accompanied Sue.

Once everyone in our group had reboarded the coach, we drove a short distance to the coast and spent some time photographing the beach, as well as several large, black, hairy caterpillars that appeared determined to march as quickly as possible across the grassy picnic area where we were standing.

A further twenty-minute drive brought us to the pier of a small fishing village known for its lobster catch. Our guide explained the strict regulations surrounding lobster fishing and the considerable challenges faced by those who make their living in these often treacherous waters. Today, however, we saw only a scene of serene beauty: small, pristine boats lined up neatly along the shore, lobster pots stacked in orderly blocks, and the sunlight sparkling on a calm sea, creating a strong impression of harmony and peaceful coexistence with nature.

We returned to Charlottetown via a different route, offering us a glimpse of the town’s more residential side. We liked what we saw and agreed it was somewhere we would be happy to return to and explore further in the future. We arrived back on board the Sky Princess in time for the all-important lunch, essential fuel for the exertions of another afternoon stroll into town.

An hour later, we sallied out once more, joining the great British invasion force attempting to storm the town’s retail outlets. However, it was Canada’s Thanksgiving, and some shop owners clearly had more pressing family commitments than catering to tourists or bolstering the local economy; many doors remained firmly shut. Thankfully, enough stores were open and trading, church doors stood wide ajar, and the fire station had one of its oldest engines proudly on display. The cruise terminal, too, was bustling with stalls eager to satisfy visitors’ appetite for all things Canadian, swiftly relieving returning cruisers of their heavy wallets full of dollars.

Our morning guide had repeatedly emphasised how beautiful, peaceful, and safe Charlottetown was, and as we sat for a while on bright red wooden benches along the quay, resting our weary feet, we had to agree. The warmth of the sun eased tired muscles, and the gentle sound of waves lapping against the rocks blended perfectly with the cheerful chatter of passing tourists. It was peaceful, at ease, and safe; he was right.

We sailed from the port at 6 p.m. just as the sun began to dip below the horizon. From our window seat in the restaurant, we watched the town’s twinkling lights gradually slip away into the distance until, by the end of dessert, all that remained was darkness.

That evening’s entertainment was an excellent vocalist named Nik Page, who once starred as Jean Valjean in the 2005/2006 West End production of Les Misérables. A talented performer, he also played both piano and drums during his show, a great evening’s entertainment.