13th June 2018

Today’s journey followed the route from Schreiber to Wawa. In the early part of our trip, we closely hugged Lake Superior’s northern shoreline, offering views of still waters, tree-covered islands, inviting little bays, and an increasing number of small settlements, often accompanied by a campsite or RV park.

The morning was sunny, but the temperature was noticeably cooler than further inland, as the lake exerted its natural cooling effect. As we continued eastwards, the sky gradually clouded over. We stopped for a break in Marathon, enjoying a large hot chocolate before checking out the town beach. It turned out to be little more than pebbles and piles of driftwood, hardly living up to the expectations its name might inspire. Regrettably, Marathon was nothing like its Greek namesake.

A brief rain shower followed as we drove on, but the weather soon cleared. Our next stop was to photograph a moose at the side of the road. A little further on, Sue spotted another, and again, we pulled over. This one, however, seemed as interested in us as we were in it, staring at us intently until we eventually tired of taking photos. Clearly, it was hoping to land the front cover of Nature Weekly, striking its best poses for the camera.

The road then took us inland, winding through forested hills and past lake after lake, most of which had at least one cabin plonked upon its shore, no doubt summer retreats for ‘city slickers’ from the east! As we neared our destination, the Mystic Isle Motel, just south of Wawa, we returned to the shore of Lake Superior, and appropriately, the sun reappeared.

The plan was to locate the motel first and then explore, but when the Satnav confidently announced our arrival, it was clear we hadn’t. After retracing part of our route in vain, we decided to head into Wawa itself for lunch at a local restaurant. With appetites satisfied, we poked around the shops without buying anything before enquiring at the Tourist Information Office to ask about our accommodation, only to discover that if we had simply carried on a little further around the next bend, we would have found it!

Upon checking in, we were pleasantly surprised to find our room beautifully decorated and furnished to a very high standard, certainly a cut above the usual motel experience.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the local area in the car. First stop was Silver Falls, followed by Silver Beach. We came across an early settlers’ cemetery and took our time in examining the three remaining visible gravestones, along with their accompanying information boards. They gave a fascinating glimpse into the lives of those who had once called this place home.

We speculated that the cemetery had been positioned there for the magnificent view it offered over the lake, perhaps a final thoughtful gesture for its residents.

We made the decision to continue along a very dusty road we had been following for several more kilometres, acutely aware of a low fuel warning light glowing on the dashboard. Our destination was Sandy Beach, a picturesque arc of silver sand.

As we strolled along the shoreline, we met a local man walking his two dogs who seemed keen to engage us in conversation before moving on. Just offshore, a large flock of noisy Canada geese had gathered, clustered together as if holding a union meeting. We wondered what they were gaggling on about.

Sandy Beach is known for its connection to the ‘Group of Seven,’ a collective of Canadian artists who frequently painted scenes from this and other nearby locations. As we explored the well-trodden path, we came across several information boards showcasing particular paintings alongside details about the artist who created them. A particularly charming touch was their presentation; many of them were mounted on easels, complete with an artist’s seat, allowing visitors to view the landscape much as the painters once had. Brilliant and innovative idea!

With the fuel in our tank running ever lower, we pressed on for several more kilometres to Magpie High Falls. Waterfalls seem to be a recurring theme on this trip, but in a country with such an abundance of water, I suppose it’s inevitable.

These falls, though man-made as part of a hydroelectric scheme, were no less impressive for it. The sheer volume of water cascading down was a sight to behold, and despite their engineered origins, they retained a certain wild and untamed beauty.

With our thirst for yet another cascading body of water satisfied, we sped off in the Nissan, leaving billowing clouds of dust in our wake, to find a petrol station just outside Wawa. Seventy-two dollars later, the 4×4’s ravenous belly was full once more, allowing us to continue at a less nervous and more leisurely pace to Wawa town beach.

Being out of season, it was, unsurprisingly, deserted. After a pleasant and gentle walk along the shore, we took to the car again, cruising past the many beachside properties, admiring the views they possessed and maybe the lifestyles of their occupants, but certainly not envying their winters!

We returned to the Mystic Isle Motel later than planned and, after a quick change (which turned out to be a wise decision), took a short walk to another recommended restaurant, this time perched just above a nearby river. As advertised, it was fine dining, and appropriately, we were now suitably dressed for the occasion. The meal, the best of our trip so far, was well worth it, though the bill was a stark reminder that Lake Superior Walleye and chicken stir-fry don’t come cheap.

Returning to our room, we spent the rest of the evening winding down with the TV before drifting off into a well-earned sleep.