22nd August 2014

The 7:30 am alarm was shattered by the sound of clanking chains at 7:00 am. Being in a lower cabin at the front of the ship means enduring the anchor being dropped right outside your window. It’s not a continuous, dramatic clanking like a World War I tank, but rather a series of random, jarring grinds that keep you on edge. Despite the early disturbance, we managed to make it to breakfast by 7:30 am and were stretching our legs on the deck by 8:00 am.

We geared up for our excursion, collected our Tender Card, and boarded the boat that took us to the harbour, as the ship was anchored a mile offshore.

We enjoyed a smooth Tender ride to the second-largest island in the Lofoten chain. Once ashore, we hopped on a free shuttle bus to the main town of Leknes (population 8,000), eager to explore the island life. Half an hour later, we were back on the bus to the harbour. Unfortunately, the harbour was a bit disappointing, offering little interest to tourists beyond a shopping mall. It seemed more like a functional settlement without much frills.

We spent the next 45 minutes exploring the small beaches and rocky outcrops near the quay. Sue was brave enough to take off her shoes and socks and wade into the water. A few other passengers followed suit, I thought it mad and was proved right when they quickly turned blue from the cold. Did they not know we were above the Arctic Circle?

We boarded the tour bus and set off down the E10 under clearing skies. The views were as spectacular as one could imagine.

Our first stop was the charming fishing town of Henningsvaer. There we watched a short film showcasing local scenes in the community hall, before Sue explored the nearby art gallery, while I wandered through the town, taking photos and trying to capture its beauty. One of the drawbacks of these excursions is the limited time available. I could easily have spent several days exploring the surrounding seas and mountains.

  

Our second and last stop was in Svolvaer, the largest town in the chain and on the largest island. We were there to visit ‘The Magic Ice-bar’, and have a non-alcoholic cocktail. We were given cloaks to wear to prevent us from freezing as we entered what must have been a giant freezer. Inside were dozens of elaborate ice sculptures, which surprisingly seemed to photograph well, even though inside it was very gloomy.

We were supposed to only have one drink, though Sue managed to have four. She found out later on the return journey that they did contain alcohol, and promptly fell asleep on the bus with a smile on her lips.

Having experienced two of the islands in this Arctic chain, we saw how popular they were with climbers and hikers from all over Europe. We witnessed countless souls clinging to cliffs, trekking along trails, or paddling canoes everywhere we looked. Don’t be fooled into thinking this place isn’t a wilderness. It certainly is, but the Norwegians have built superb roads that make it very accessible. From the comfort of a tour bus, you pass swiftly through these stunning landscapes, yet I would love to be out there stretching my legs, at least on a sunny day. Though I’m not so sure about November to March!

When we eventually returned to Leknes, we boarded the waiting tender and were soon back on board, stocking up with pizza and panini from the restaurant. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast, eight hours earlier!

We left our anchorage at 6 pm. Sue went on deck to watch, while I stayed in the cabin to listen to the anchor chain rattle and stow itself away safely in the wardrobe. Note to the Captain: Have you considered a chain muffler to comply with EEC Noise Abatement Regulations and the well-being of your stowage class passengers?

Later, in the stern theatre, we watched a tribute act to Cliff Richard. Despite a nervous start, the performer was very good, sounding and looking like a younger version of the original. Sue and I joined in with the songs we knew, and unlike the night before, we knew most of the names of the tunes.

Only six of us were at dinner, as Lynne and Barry had arranged alternative dining. The conversation centred around grandchildren, Christmas, and our daily activities. Afterwards, we all moved to the theatre to watch an excellent dance group perform. However, technicians struggled to lower the part of the stage electronically, despite multiple attempts and additional crew members joining in. The Cruise Director announced that the stage was too dangerous to dance on, so they would show the film “Quartet” instead. As we had already seen the film, Sue and I took a walk on the deck and retired early for the night. Not everything always goes to plan on a cruise ship, consider the Titanic.