(10th January 2025)

From our balcony, we could see the iconic Burj Al Arab emerging through the early morning mist as we began preparing for the day. It was a leisurely start, as Jamie needed to catch up on some online work, while I used the time to edit a few past blogs. It was close to midday when we set off along the E11 towards Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates. Once we navigated Dubai’s labyrinthine road network, the E11 provided a fast and straightforward route south, thankfully free from heavy traffic and constant lane changes.

I had little idea of the day’s itinerary, other than the fact that we were to don our thobes at some point and visit the Grand Mosque. Our first stop was a salt lake some distance outside Abu Dhabi. Jamie assured me it would offer spectacular views (according to TikTok), but on arrival, we found only a small body of water with several water tankers parked along its sandy shore. It was far from the likes of the Dead Sea or Utah’s Great Salt Lake, perhaps it would be more impressive later in the winter when the rains arrive.

Next, we visited the Mangrove National Park, which accounts for nearly 75 per cent of the UAE’s total mangrove forest area. This biodiversity hotspot features salt marshes, mudflats, and algal communities. Before exploring its raised wooden walkways and viewing platforms, we enjoyed drinks and hot dogs purchased from a stall in the car park, eating them on comfortable seating with a view over the mangroves. With our appetites sated, we began our exploration of the area.

The circuit of the walkway took us about an hour, during which we photographed the abundant wildlife as we went. Fish, crabs, and birds were plentiful, though they rarely stayed still long enough to be captured to our satisfaction. We’ve both visited mangrove swamps before, but this one stood out for its well-maintained trails and ample signage explaining the features and wildlife. It was a pleasant and informative way to spend part of the afternoon.

Heading into the city, we visited the highly popular Emirates Heritage Village, a reconstructed village offering a fascinating glimpse into life in the UAE during the pre-oil era. Situated on Marina Mall Island, close to the city centre, it was an easy spot to explore. We parked alongside the sea wall, which stretches along the length of the Corniche and offers stunning views of the Rixos Marina Abu Dhabi, a hotel strikingly similar in design to the Atlantis Palm. Entry to the museum is free, and it showcases aspects of traditional Bedouin life and culture, including workshops demonstrating traditional crafts. From the village, there are also superb views across the water to the city and its beaches. I was struck by the number of Russian tourists, many visiting with their families, a rarity in most popular holiday destinations in recent years. After wandering through the exhibits and taking plenty of photos, it was time to move on.

Passing the magnificent Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental Hotel, we made a spur-of-the-moment decision to stop by. After parking our modest hire car in one of the three underground levels, amidst a sea of supercars and Bentleys, we confidently strolled to the reception. Following a brief exploration of a portion of its spectacular gardens, we settled into one of the opulently furnished lounges. Taking advantage of the hotel’s Wi-Fi, we caught up on emails before deciding to enjoy tea and beer in one of the bars. The complimentary nibbles, olives, nuts, and stuffed dates that accompanied our refreshments could easily have qualified as afternoon tea in most establishments.

As the afternoon wore on, we set off through increasingly heavy traffic to visit the Grand Mosque. Compared to Dubai, Abu Dhabi feels far more relaxed, with a prettier and better-planned cityscape.

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque was just 15 minutes away and visible from afar. As darkness fell, the mosque’s illuminations began to glow, framing its grand silhouette against the moon and stars. Constructed between 1994 and 2007, it was inaugurated in December 2007. The building complex measures approximately 290 by 420 metres and spans over 12 hectares, excluding the surrounding landscaping and parking areas. Its main axis is aligned with the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca, Saudi Arabia.

Finding a parking space proved challenging, but we eventually secured one in an underground car park. After changing into thobes purchased the previous day, we embarked on a marathon trek to the mosque entrance. Despite the large crowds, the visitor management system was impressively efficient. After inputting our details into self-service terminals and navigating a network of malls and corridors, with the aid of convenient moving walkways, we arrived at the mosque’s surface entrance.

The Grand Mosque is vast and capable of accommodating over 40,100 worshippers, with the main prayer hall alone holding more than 7,000. Two smaller prayer halls, each with a capacity of 1,500, include one designated for women. The mosque is undeniably breathtaking. While its size and grandeur surpass the Taj Mahal, we felt the Taj wins for sheer serenity and ethereal beauty.

Inside, we shuffled along with the crowd, marvelling at the mosque’s vast interiors and the elegant simplicity of its decoration. Aside from the exceptional quality of the building materials, the standout features are the immense, intricate chandeliers adorning various rooms. The experience was truly memorable, a testament to the country’s pride in this cherished landmark.

The drive back to Dubai felt like a real-life Mario Kart session, and I was grateful we arrived without incident. Driving standards are questionable; lane changes without signalling are the norm, and with cheap fuel enabling large, powerful engines, speeding seems almost compulsory.

We stopped at a bustling restaurant in Dubai Harbour for a pleasant meal and a spot of people-watching. The area appears to be a favourite for dining and family evening strolls.

Finally, we returned to the apartment, pausing at the small supermarket in the complex so Jamie could buy some tea bags for tomorrow’s breakfast.