1st October 2023

Overnight, the Sky Princess steamed north along the coast to the small town of Bar Harbor on Mount Desert Island, nestled in Maine’s Frenchman Bay. The town serves as a gateway to the rugged mountains and cliffs of neighbouring Acadia National Park.

On waking, we were greeted by a glorious day: clear blue skies and sunshine that promised warmth in the hours ahead. The ship had already anchored off the tiny islet of Bar Island, which obscured our view of Bar Harbor itself, but all around us lay a scattering of equally small islets, with boats of every kind moored between them. It could easily have been a scene from the Caribbean, or perhaps Halong Bay, were it not for the absence of tropical flora that subtly betrayed our true location.

Noting from the ship’s magazine that tender tickets would be available from 7 a.m., we anticipated joining a long queue when we arrived at the distribution point shortly after breakfast at 7.30. However, to our surprise, we were the only passengers there. Just ten minutes later, we found ourselves on board the first tender, accompanied by around 50 other cruisers who had seemingly materialised from nowhere.

The twenty-minute journey across flat, calm waters brought us to the small harbour dock. First impressions were of an immaculately kept and charming seaside town. Originally named Eden in 1796, after a British nobleman, the town was later renamed Bar Harbor. In years past, it became a retreat for America’s rich and famous, drawn by its stunning coastal scenery, the abundance of yachts and lobster boats, and the breathtaking views of ocean and islands, scenes that range from glistening sunlight to heavy fog and drifting sea mist.

We had made no specific arrangements for this port, other than to explore it on foot. Finding a suitable boulder to perch on beside Lulu’s Lobster Boat Rides, just off West Street by the wharf, we consulted a freshly acquired town map and made our plans. The nearby Shore Path seemed a promising option, likely to lead us away from the growing crowd around the harbour. With both a paper map and Google to hand, we set off.

The path, originally created around 1880, begins near the town pier and Agamont Park, continuing for about half a mile along the eastern shoreline of the town. Offshore, the four Porcupine Islands rose invitingly from the bay’s blue waters. At first, we passed several hotels and tastefully designed condominium blocks before reaching a series of private residences of a decidedly expensive nature.

We paused to photograph a large boulder resting on the rocky shore, geologically alien to the area and left behind by the retreating glaciers of the last ice age. On reaching the end of the coastal section of the path, our route took us into the town’s residential district. The houses here were equally impressive, each set within large, tranquil gardens immaculately maintained by teams of gardeners.

Upon reaching Main Street, we turned right towards the harbour, taking our time as this stretch is home to many of the town’s varied retail outlets. Although it was a Sunday, a good number of shops were open, and we took full advantage, enjoying a leisurely browse through the goods on offer. In one shop, I treated myself to a logoed sweater as a memento of our visit. When we reached the junction with Mount Desert Street, we continued along it, soon encountering a series of three churches, each of which we entered in turn.

The first church was preparing for its 10 a.m. service. We were warmly greeted by the pastor, who, ever hopeful, handed us an order of service. The interior of the building was very plain, with little or no decoration, so we didn’t linger long. The second church offered quite a different experience. With the service not due to begin until 11 a.m., it was largely empty save for a couple of parishioners. However, the stained glass windows were truly stunning, designed and crafted by Tiffany, no less. The quality was exceptional. While reading a large brass plaque set into the floor, a parishioner approached and explained that beneath it lay the body of the town’s governor, who, in the 1800s, had died in his pew during a service. The congregation completed the service before attending to his remains.

The third church was Roman Catholic, and as the service was about to begin, it seemed as though the entire town was flooding in to attend. I chose to sit on a low wall across the street, while a more inquisitive Sue joined the gathering. Not wishing to disturb the proceedings, she soon made her exit.

Consulting the map, we decided to visit the sand spit that separates Bar Island from Mount Desert Island. We chose a route that took us back down Main Street and then along West Street, once again popping in and out of the many retail outlets. The sand spit seemed a popular destination for cruise passengers, as we found ourselves joining an increasing number of them the closer we got. It is possible to walk across the spit twice a day for four hours during low tide. Half of Bar Island was once purchased by Rockefeller as a private hideaway.

Disappointingly, it was close to high tide when we arrived, and we were met instead by a broad expanse of water and a narrow strip of beach. We opted to sit in the sun for half an hour or so, took some photographs, and enjoyed a relaxed chat while soaking in the view.

Feeling refreshed, we continued along West Street until we came to the Rochelle Mansion and Museum. Built in 1903 for George Sullivan Bowdoin and Julia Grinnell Bowdoin, this estate is the largest constructed along the West Street shoreline in Bar Harbor. After paying the entrance fee, we began exploring the grand, multi-roomed house. Each section has been faithfully restored to its early 20th-century condition, complete with appropriate furnishings and decorations. The rooms also feature various themes and exhibits, with excellent descriptions that kept our interest throughout.

We concluded our visit with a gentle stroll around the garden, cementing our impression that this must have been a truly wonderful place to live.

We returned mid-afternoon to the ship aboard a large vessel normally used for whale-watching trips, although today it was not. A large storm some 30 miles out to sea meant that those hoping to see whales from the Sky Princess would be disappointed.

The ship weighed anchor at 5.30 p.m., carefully navigating through the numerous strings of lobster pots as it left the bay.

That evening, we dined at a large table of ten. Graham, the elderly gentleman we had shared dinner with several nights before, who had taken a tumble in the restaurant and banged his head on the wall, was there and in good spirits. As on the previous occasion, he regaled us with amusing stories and seemed none the worse for his mishap.

The evening’s entertainment was provided by the mentalist Wayne Hoffman. Besides performing on cruise ships, he has appeared on America’s Got Talent, France’s Got Talent, Britain’s Got Talent, National Geographic, CNN, The Science Channel, and major Japanese networks, including TV Asahi, Fuji TV, and TBS. Another excellent evening of entertainment.